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Choosing the Right Epoxy for my Counter Top

October 3, 2018

GLEAMING, GORGEOUS, DURABLE EPOXY COUNTERTOP!   Oh Yeah!

DCF 1.0

We want to solve your sticky situation. Which epoxy is the right one for my counter top?

Oh, those gleaming, mirror-like epoxy coated countertops!  Perfectly covering a countertop made of gorgeous wood, modern metal, contemporary concrete or a super-cool bottle cap collage of your cousin’s cat.  Hey, we won’t judge (but the cat might).  Thus, the dilemma.  Do you go with a thicker, more adhesive epoxy or with a thinner, more flowing one?  In the spirit of great decision makers everywhere; it depends.

For metal and/or concrete countertops, choose our 400/21 epoxy. 

It is a thicker epoxy with excellent adhesion qualities.  Both of these are important when coating metal like copper or stainless steel (NOT anodized stainless steel!) or concrete.

For wood and/or countertops embedded with bottle caps, inlaid with comic book pages etc., you will want our 300/21 epoxy.

It is a thinner epoxy that flows well, which are both important for achieving a beautiful finish on your wood or embedded countertop.

What if I don’t follow your excellent, time-tested advice and instead choose the 400/21 epoxy for my countertop inlaid with winning moments from the Cleveland Browns 2017 season?

(We are still sad about the former San Diego, now that other city’s, Chargers).

You are going to have to work a lot harder to get a smooth countertop.  400/21 epoxy on a countertop with embedded objects will have a lot more air bubbles that you will need to carefully remove with a heat gun. Yes, a heat gun. No, not a propane torch or a hairdryer.  Have you seen our hairdryer?  No, we haven’t either.  That’s why baseball caps are our new best friend.  Save yourself time and trouble by using 400/21 epoxy with concrete or metal countertops.

What if I reject all these wise words and buy 300/21 epoxy for my shiny *stainless steel countertop or my cool **concrete countertop?

You will have a different set of obstacles with these types of countertops.  Since the 300/21 epoxy is thinner, it will run off the metal countertop and you will have to deal with drips or quickly master the skill of building an epoxy dam. With a concrete countertop, the 300/21 epoxy will absorb more readily into the concrete.  You will have to use a lot more epoxy to get the same thickness that you would with the 400/21 epoxy.  (We are trying to save you money and get you the best result so that you can enjoy your fabulous countertop and stop calling us by creative new expletives.)

*Important:  You must make certain that your metal countertop is free from any oils or other materials that can inhibit adhesion and/or cure of the epoxy.

**Also important: Your concrete countertop must be cured at least 30 days before you apply epoxy.  The concrete must be moisture-free when epoxy is applied.  Otherwise, you will have whitish stains that you can’t remove, cracking and/or mold in the concrete. Gross!

Finally, the same awesome advice for epoxy coating on countertops applies to epoxy coating for tabletops and bartops.

For help with your epoxy coating project, to send us a photo of you with your exquisite epoxy countertop (we love customer photos!) or to tell us that you really don’t care about the Chargers, please email us at info@aeromarineproducts.com, call us toll-free 1-877-342-8860 or visit our website  www.aeromarineproducts.com

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